Final Message and Farewell For Now...

Today is the final day of our Fulbright journey to Jordan and Oman, and it has been a wonderful experience overall. We have today to pack and to tie any loose ends before having a wrap-up and farewell dinner later tonight. Before today ends, I am going to make a point to visit one of my favorite areas of Amman (an area called Jebel Amman) and the Ice Cream House (that I alluded to in my most recent post) here in our neighborhood of the city. Our flight will then leave Jordan at 2:50 AM and I will begin a 20 hour voyage (via Frankfurt, Germany) back home to Houston.

Yesterday, we took a day trip up to the north of Jordan, first visiting Umm Qais, which is in the far northwestern corner of Jordan. Umm Qais, known as Gadara in historic times, is home to some impressive Greco-Roman ruins and spectacular views looking out onto the Golan Heights and Lake Tiberius. Next, we stopped by a small village to see some local dancing (called dabka) and that was a real treat. After a delicious lunch in Jordan's second largest city (Irbid), we then ventured on to visit another spectacular, historic castle in Ajloun.


It was then on to one of Jordan's most famous locales - Jerash. Known formerly as Gerasa, Jerash was founded in 170 BC and is considered to be one of the most dramatic and best preserved Roman cities in the Middle East. The Roman ruins extend across the hillside setting and features an impressive array of structures, including Hadrian's Arch, the Oval Plaza, the Cardo (which is the main thoroughfare), the South Theatre, and the Temple of Artemis.
Our late afternoon visit to Jerash is one I will not soon forget. Before returning to Amman, we stopped to witness a sunset at a scenic area overlooking the Jordan Valley. It was a fitting conclusion to the day and an appropriate metaphor for this juncture of our journey.

So, speaking of sunsets, the time has come to bid farewell (at least for the time being). I feel very grateful to have had the opportunity to participate in the Fulbright-Hays Program, which is so impressive with its objectives of fostering cross-cultural awareness and appreciation. It was also a pleasure navigating this part of the world with such a nice and capable group of colleagues, who certainly enriched the experiences I have had over the past five weeks. I'd be remiss if I didn't mention and thank Cal Allen, our group leader, for being a fantastic ambassador and resource for our group throughout. The kind people at AMIDEAST, especially people like Subhi here in Jordan and Dina in Oman, will long be remembered and appreciated for their hospitality and efforts in ensuring that we would have a great experience in the region.

Perhaps most of all, I learned about just how special both Oman and Jordan are in terms of their people, histories, physical landscapes, and cultural richness. We encountered so many nice and generous people in the places we visited along the way. If you happen to be looking for great places to visit, these countries are definitely worthy of strong consideration.

With that said, it is time to announce the final wadi count and the winner of the magnet. We saw/visited 3 more wadis in our trip to the north of Jordan yesterday, which brought the final wadi count for the trip to 25. That means that Kim Montgomery, who guessed 23 wadis back at the beginning of this voyage in June, is the grand prize winner! Congrats Kim and thanks to all of you who put your wadi guessing skills to the test...

Last but not least, I would like to say thanks one final time to all of you who have followed this journey. I hope my humble collection of anecdotes these past few weeks has provided a glimpse into this unique corner of the planet. I can say that your interest and support really made the journey all the more fun, and I felt very much that we were taking this trip together in spirit. So for now and until the next time, goodbye and maas salaama...

Many Neighborhoods, One Community

Today, we had the opportunity to visit the Baqaa Refugee Camp in the outskirts of Amman. Baqaa is a community nearly 100,000 residents. One of the key administrative agencies for providing services to the local Palestinian populace who lives in Baqaa is the United Nations Relief and Works Agency (UNRWA), which was established in 1949 to provide humanitarian services for displaced Palestinian populations. The primary goal in UNRWA’s early years was to establish an infrastructure within the camps, but since the mid-1950s, its focus has shifted towards empowerment, capacity building, and vocational training. The term “camp” implies that the community is somehow temporary with a makeshift structure, ephemeral housing, etc. However, I found Baqaa to be a vibrant, established neighborhood brimming with activity. Listening to a number of UNRWA’s community leaders present the story of Baqaa brought into sharper focus the magnitude of the Palestinian experience over the past sixty years, and visiting the community proved to be very moving. One of my favorite parts of touring the community today was visiting with various children along the way. Much like earlier in this journey, being around the kids reminded me of the universal joy, wonder, and curious spirit that seems to be so endearingly and universally present in children, and it left me with a great feeling of hope, despite being in a community that has faced many hardships in recent history.

There is one other neighborhood here in Amman I want to give mention to and that is the one in which we are staying – a neighborhood called Sweifiyeh. This has been our home for most of the three weeks that we have been here in Jordan, and over that period of time, I think many in our group have developed a bond with the neighborhood. The Geneva Hotel has served as our home during this time period, and it has been a nice home base. The staff here is very kind and there are a couple of staff members here who I believe I will stay in touch with even well after we leave Jordan. The hotel has been great, even if it feels a bit like groundhog day with the same music tracks playing over and over again (which could perhaps be described as swanky elevator music with some panache) and at least one wedding party each night.

In fact, wedding parties are a nightly occurrence here (at least during the summer), and I was told that the hotel is hosting a total of 45 wedding parties this month. By the way, many weddings are huge and lively celebrations here in Jordan. I also want to give a little “blog press” to my favorite local place in the neighborhood, which is the ice cream shop (now is anyone here surprised about that J) located a couple blocks from our hotel. The ice cream there is indeed delicious, but what makes it special is the incredibly kind people who manage and work in the shop. They even insisted on giving me an ice cream on the house on one of my visits, and on other visits have put extra scoops of ice cream in my order or have undercharged me. Their generosity, like many Jordanians I have met here, is overflowing.

As we approach the final days of our Fulbright journey to the Middle East, I can’t help but feel reflective on the multitude of the experiences we’ve had. One thing that I’ve been reminded of on numerous occasions throughout this trip is the universal experience and bond we share as humans. No matter where you are or where you go in the world, you will find people who smile, who love, who give, who dream, and who hope. Obviously, I am well aware of the fact that there are a wide range of other emotions and actions that are perhaps not as noble that connect us as humans as well. However, in addition to learning a great deal about many facets of Omani and Jordanian lives and societies on this fellowship, I will come back home with a renewed sense that we are much more alike as humans than we are different, and with a feeling of tremendous hope and optimism that the world can indeed be a community with greater peace and understanding as we forge into the future.

I know that it may seem as though the tone of this entry evokes an air of finality. However, I will plan on posting at least one more entry for the blog as our fellowship draws to a close (our group flies back to the U.S. in a few days - on the 26th), if for no other reason to give you all one final wadi count and to announce the grand prize winner of a coveted Middle Eastern magnet!

South Jordan Adventure - Part Ithnain (2)

The second half of our southern Jordanian adventure consisted of visits to Wadi Rum and Aqaba (July 18th and 19th). We started out the 18th with one last morning in Petra, then drove further south towards Wadi Rum, an area with a breathtaking mix of desert and mountainous outcroppings, and home to the epic Lawrence of Arabia.

Wadi Rum is a protected nature reserve and home to some giant monolithic rockscapes made of sandstone and granite. Shortly after arriving at our camp, run by a very hospitable Bedouin family, we ventured out on a 4x4 jeep tour of the area. We made several stops to explore the spectacular settings and to stop by a remote marketplace under a tent, a place I'd rather affectionately refer to as "Rum-Mart". We then arrived back at camp in time to witness a wonderful sunset. We had a deliciously prepared meal of chicken and fish, and soon thereafter saw the star-filled skies unfold before our eyes. Seeing the accompanying Milky Way so vividly enhanced the already amazing star-gazing experience. The temperatures were so comfortable that a number of us decided to pull our sleeping bags outside to sleep under the stars. It was truly a "Grade A" kind of day!

After waking up around sunrise, we had breakfast at our camp in Wadi Rum before heading a little further south to the port city of Aqaba, located near the borders of 3 other countries (Israel, Egypt, and Saudi Arabia). Jordan has only about 15 miles of coastline along the Red Sea, but it's limited coast is clearly cherished and valued by Jordanians. A special economic zone has been established in Aqaba, and we had an opportunity to meet with the zone's chief commissioner in the morning. We then visited Aqaba's Marine Science Center, highlighted by a visit to the center's aquarium, where we saw a sample of the local marine life. That was followed by a couple of hours at the Red Sea, where we had the opportunity to go swimming or snorkeling. Lured by the coral-rich waters and diversity of aquatic life, I couldn't resist the chance to snorkel and it proved to be a wonderful experience.

We arrived back in Amman last night after a 4 1/2 hour bus trip from Aqaba. Amman will be our home base for the remainder of our time in Jordan (in fact, we now have less than one week remaining in our Fulbright here). For the record, we saw two more wadis on the second half of our trip to the south of Jordan (Wadi Yutem and Wadi Rum), bringing the total wadi count to 22.

South Jordan Excursion - Part Wahad (1)

The first part of our venture to the south of Jordan (on July 16th and 17th) definitely ranks up there as one of the biggest highlights of this fellowship. Over the last couple of days, we have visited Karak, the Dana Nature Reserve, Shobak, and Petra.

Our first stop was to Karak, where we visited a 12th century "crusader castle" perched along a mountaintop. There are a total of 3 crusader castles whose remains can still be found throughout various parts of Jordan. The castle itself was fascinating and afforded spectacular views of the surrounding area.

Next, we went to the Dana Nature Reserve, an area that was designated with such status in the 1990s and considered a great achievement in preserving a beautiful natural environment while promoting low-impact ecotourism to this part of the country. Dana (pronounced as "donna"...but of course) translates as "natural defense" and the term is apropos in describing the local setting. Situated at nearly 4,000 feet in elevation, we stayed in an incredibly rustic village overlooking a grand and scenic wadi (and just wait until you see the wadi count at the end of this message - we've seen quite a few over the last couple days!) and situated on a cliffside promontory. Our group stayed overnight in the village, and I had an opportunity to sleep on the rooftop of a building in a traditional-style Bedouin tent. It was great, and there were an endless number of stars to admire in the clear evening sky.

Today, we visited another crusader castle in Shobak, which was similar in some respects to the one we saw in Karak, yet distinctively situated in yet another spectacular setting. Then, it was off to Petra, Jordan's famous "lost city" that is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and considered one of the new seven wonders of the world. Petra is an ancient Nabatean city (the Nabateans date back to at least 647 BC in this area) situated in a canyon setting reminscent of places like Sedona, Arizona. The most famous spot in Petra is the grand Treasury, carved right into the sandstone and just an incredible site to see. However, Petra is so much more than the Treasury, as there was an entire community interspersed in the surrounding canyons. The Romans took over the area in 106 AD and there is a visible Roman imprint on this city, which is tucked away in a natural fault within the mountains.

I spent 8 memorable hours in Petra today, with the highlights including a tour of the "siq" (the narrow passage in the canyon that leads to the heart of the famous Treasury and heart of Petra), taking a camel ride, and talking for about an hour with a Bedouin family whose roots to the Petra area go back many generations.

Per tradition, I think today's installment should conclude with some talk of the wadis. We have seen six in the first part of this road trip to the south of Jordan (Wadi Karak, Wadi Hasa, Wadi Araba, Wadi Dana, Wadi Shobak, and Wadi Musa), bringing the official wadi count to 20 for the trip. I'll be back to talk more about the second half of our south Jordanian adventure soon...

Generosity and Hope in Amman

Our last few days here in Amman have been full of events and activities. In addition to full days of lectures and activities, we have enjoyed the hospitality of a couple of local families in recent days. The first of these occasions was a few days ago, when Subhi (one of the key people at the AMIDEAST Organization who has been helping coordinate our schedule/visit here in Jordan) invited our group to visit him at his home.

A number of us in the group (Alicia, Linda, Rubaba, and myself) accepted his gracious invitation and we had a very nice visit with Subhi and his roommate Ali. Then, last night, a group of us (Rubaba, Nathan and I, along with Subhi) visited a local family who generously hosted us for tea and snacks, though it turned out to be a bit more like tea and dinner. In both instances, we were given a unique opportunity to catch a more intimate glimpse of the local life and culture of residents here.

On Monday evening, our group met with a local community activist, who among other things, serves as an advocate for local children in an economically challenged neighborhood. The highlight of the evening was a “Q&A” session we had with the approximately 20 local kids (aged 8-15). Their spirit and sense of wonder was a poignant reminder of the hope that exists in the hands of our future generations.

Today’s focus was on education through a series of lectures and events, but the highlight for me was having the chance to visit the large and beautiful campus at the University of Jordan. There, we met with a group of college deans and then proceeded to take a tour of the campus, which happened to remind me a bit of Northern Arizona University with its pine trees and changing topographies.

Tomorrow morning (bright and early) we will be venturing on a 4-day road trip to the south of Jordan. It might not be until we get back to Amman that I am able to post again, but I will definitely provide “the scoop” (or at least my version of a scoop) on Petra, Wadi Rum, and Aqaba in the near future. The wadi count remains at 14, but that will change for sure between now and the next time we meet!

Map to the Mountain to the River to the Sea

A couple of days ago, we had a fantastic opportunity to take a day trip out of Amman to a part of Jordan rich in history, religious importance, and of course, geography! The day started with a stop in Madaba, which is a charming, laid-back town located approximately half an hour away from Amman. Madaba is located in the heart of what was historically known as the “Land of Moab”. However, what makes Madaba particularly special is the series of Byzantine era mosaics that you can find there. The most famous (and certainly my favorite as a geographer) is a 6th century giant Middle Eastern map mosaic that can be found on the floor of a local Greek Orthodox Church. Although parts of it are no longer visible, the detail, size, and accuracy of the map are really impressive!

After Madaba, we drove up to Mount Nebo, which in biblical history is famed as being the vantage point where Moses saw the “Promised Land” after a 40 year trek through the wilderness. Mount Nebo is important to Jews, Christians and Muslims alike and today looks upon the West Bank. On a really clear day, you can see parts of Jerusalem in the distance. Although we weren’t quite able to see Jerusalem, it was a great spot to see the lay of the land, including parts of the Dead Sea and Jordan River Valley.

Speaking of the Jordan River, that was our next stop. It is situated in a security-laden zone where Jordan meets the West Bank today. There, we visited what is strongly believed to be the site where John the Baptist baptized Jesus a couple thousand years ago. Though the river is relatively small in size today, for many it is one of great significance.



Our final stop of the day was to the lowest point on the planet, the Dead Sea, which is located about 1,200 feet below sea level. The Dead Sea is found along an extension of the Great Rift Valley, and it got its name back because of how uniquely salty it is. Whereas normal ocean water has a salt consistency of 3-4%, the Dead Sea water is over 30% salty. As a result, a couple things happen. First, there isn’t any marine life in this sea. Secondly, the salinity of the water turns you into a flotation device! A number of us went swimming (or I should say floating) in the sea following lunch, and we had the chance to find out first-hand the famed buoyancy of the water. You can call it floating, but you can also call it operation bobbing cork!

The wadi count is now 14 (we visited Wadi Kharrar while in the Jordan River Valley). If you happened to guess a high number of wadis, don’t despair. In a few days, we’ll be heading down to the south of Jordan for an excursion that will be sure to encounter some of these fascinating natural features.

Amman and H2-Oh!

We are continuing to have an eventful first week in Amman. In addition to our Arabic lessons, we have had a wide range of lectures on topics such as Jordan’s School Parliament Initiative, health care, interfaith relations, political Islam, health care, and the role of Jordanian women in politics over the past couple of days. We’ve also had the chance to navigate around Amman a bit, visiting the King Abdullah Mosque yesterday and visiting the lively Jara Souk tonight. Amman has been growing on me throughout the week, and with each passing day I’ve been gaining a greater appreciation for the rhythm of the city.

Here in Jordan (and throughout much of the rest of the Middle East), the lack of water is a major issue. In fact, Jordan is one of the most water-scarce countries on the planet, and the per capita usage of water here is much lower than in most other parts of the world. Amman is a good example of that. The city gets most of its water from areas outside of the metropolitan area. For the residents who live here, a week’s worth of water is allocated in a single day. In other words, the water is made available one day a week through the resident’s pipe system, and also stored in a water tank that generally sits atop the home. The water tank then supplies the household for the remainder of the week. If a household wants to use more water, it can purchase a second tank (which is prohibitive in cost), or purchase additional water from a water tanker at a premium price. The picture here shows a set of water tanks on a multi-unit residential building.

On another tangent, one thing that I always enjoy when traveling abroad is reading the signs, menus, etc. when we are out and about. The signs are often expressed in endearing ways, as with the case of the laundry chute at our current hotel. I also really liked the name of this shoe store that we encountered while driving in the old quarter of Amman.

Tomorrow, we will be venturing out of the city for a day trip to the Dead Sea and to some of Jordan’s holy lands. Perhaps along the way, we’ll encounter a wadi (the count is still at 13), and if we do, you will be sure to hear about it!